Guidebook+

	A	B	C	D	E	F	G	H	L	M	N
1	Area	Route #	Route Name	Type	Bolt	Anchor	Grade	Notes	Mountain Project	Climbio

2	Guidebook+
3	Updates, route conditions & new lines at Long Dong since printing of "Rock Climbing Taiwan" (2012)							Sources:
4	View more details online: www.tinyurl.com/GBplus							Rock Climbing Taiwan Guidebook
5	Chinese version available in tab below!							龍洞rebolt進度列表 - 龍洞rebolt計劃
6	中文版本在下方【GB+(中文)】分頁內							2012-13龍洞Anchor Chain加裝-路線列表
7	To contribute Long Dong safety info email							Debolt Project - Unsafe Bolts
8	guidebookplus@gmail.com							Long Dong, Taiwan - Mountainproject.com
9	updated：04/2017							"台灣龍洞攀岩Guide Book 一般意見記錄區 - 台攀"
10								Climbio - Long Dong
11	First Aid Storage Locations in Long Dong
12	Backdoor
13
14
15	Area	Route #	Route Name	Type	Bolt	Anchor	Grade	Notes	Mountain Project	Climbio
16	BD	1	ㄅ - Bo	Boulder			5.7
17	BD	2	ㄆ - Po	Boulder			5.5
18	BD	3	ㄇ - Mo	Boulder			5.6
19	BD	4	ㄈ - Fo	Boulder			5.7
20	BD	5	ㄉ - Do	Boulder			5.8
21	BD	6	ㄊ - To	Boulder			5.10b
22	BD	7	草帽大嫂 - Grass Hat Sister	Trad			5.6
23	BD	8	老龍勃魯斯 Elder Dragon Blues	Trad			5.10a
24	BD	9	南方岩角 - Southern Arete	Trad			5.8
25	BD	10	簡單內角 - Easy Dihedral	Trad			5.7
26	BD	11	超越巔峰 - Into Thin Air	Toprope	None	None	5.6	Fully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gear	MP
27	BD	12	樓梯間 - Under the Staircase	Toprope	None	None	5.10c	Fully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gear	MP
28	BD	13	不要跌倒 - Watch Your Step	Trad	None	None	5.11a	Fully debolted 2014; same route as #14. Easy for the grade.
29	BD	14	後門人 - Back Door Man	Trad		None	5.10c		MP
30	BD	15	黑到爆 - Hell Night	Toprope		None	5.12d
31	BD	16	RCC	Toprope		None	5.11d		MP
32	BD	17	蛋頭 - Jeff	Trad		None	5.11a
33	BD	18	迴避 - Sidestep	Trad	None	None	5.10a	Fully debolted 2014; can be trad climbed	MP
34	BD	19	另一個懸岩 - Another Overhang	Trad		None	5.9		MP
35	BD	20	彈頭小裂隙 - Jeff's RP Crack	Trad		None	5.10a		MP
36	BD	21	斜板 - Slab, Eh	Trad		None	5.6
37	BD	22	觀浪 - Cresting Wave	Trad		None	5.7
38	BD	23	黏搭搭 - Slabby	Trad		None	5.9
39	BD	24	斜板海 - Slab Sea	Trad		None	5.8		MP
40	BD	25	斜板D - Slab Dee	Trad		None	5.9
41	BD	26	斷齒 - Flying Teeth	Trad		None	5.10b		MP
42	BD	27	熱水器 - Water Heater Route	Trad	None	None	5.8	Fully debolted 2014; can be trad climbed (maybe not the same line)	MP
43	BD	28	V字倒影 - Mirrored Vee	Boulder			5.9
44	BD	29	裂隙面 - Crackface	Toprope			5.9
45	BD	30	內角五十五 - Dihedral Fifty-Five	Boulder			5.5
46	BD	31	鐮刀 - Sickle	Toprope			5.7
47	BD	32	懸岩外角 - Hanging Arete	Toprope			5.10b
48	BD	33	開發中的抱石 - Boulder Project	Boulder			5.13a?
49	BD	34	笑裡藏刀 - Two-Faced	Toprope			5.11b
50	BD	35	騙人的拳頭 - Cheating Fists	Trad			5.8
51	BD	36	後門拳頭裂隙 Backdoor Fistcrack	Trad			5.10d
52	BD	37	岩面 - Face	Toprope			5.8
53	BD	38	散步路線 - Scramble	Toprope			5.4
54	BD	39	簡單路線 - Lowdown	Toprope			5.4
55	BD	40	湖邊路線 - Lakeside	Toprope			5.5
56	BD	41	龍柱 - Dragon Pole	Trad			5.9	Dangerous fall potential from first move.	MP
57	BD	42	地下居民 - Cellar Dweller	Trad			5.10b
58	BD	43	別撈過界 - Don't Cross The Line	Sport	Questionable	Questionable		Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
59	BD	44	地下室角落 - Basement Corner	Trad		Bad	5.6	The anchor is some very old slings. Gear at the crux is tenuous at best. Not recommended.	MP
60	BD	45	冤家宜解不宜結 - Olive Branch	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.12a	Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)
61	BD	46	誰騙了誰？ - Who fooled who?	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.11a	Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)	MP
62	BD	47	Vita	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.11d	Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)	MP
63	BD	48	Yum Yum	Trad		Solid	5.11b	Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).
64	BD	49	大家的福利- Everybody's Welfare	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.11a	Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016)	MP
65	BD	50	誰與爭鋒 - Incomparable	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.13a	Bad bolt removed and rebolted Summer 2014. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).
66	BD	51	笑傲江湖 - Xiao Ao Jiang Hu	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.12c	Rebolted 2013. soft 12c. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).1st, 2nd and last lead bolt rebolted with TI.
67	BD	52	Happy Ending	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.13a/b	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007), FFA: Alex Honnold, 10/2013: http://westietsai007.pixnet.net/blog/post/163390706 - "It's pretty height dependent but not crazy hard"
68	BD	*	雷達虎頭蜂 - Hornet Raiders	Trad		Solid	5.12	Climb up crack to the right of 52 and cross over to Xiao Ao Jiang Hu after the 3rd bolt and continue up crack on Xiao Ao Jiang Hu. Rack to #2
69	BD	53	倩女驚魂 - Phantom Fright	Trad		Questionable	5.10b	Top out not recommended, descend via High Class Quickdraw anchor	MP
70	BD	54	高檔快扣 - High Class Quckdraw	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10d	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)	MP
71	BD	55	饅頭 - Mantel	Sport	Solid	Solid	5.12b	2 sketchy bolts rebolted 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016).
72	BD	56	扭來扭去 - Twisting	Sport	Questionable	Solid	5.12a	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Sketchy bolt replaced 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016).	MP
73	BD	57	好人阿郎 - Good Guy A-Lang	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.11c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Stick clip recommended for the start.	MP
74	BD	58	一步難 - One Tough Move	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.12a	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
75	BD	59	赤頭 - Redhead	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.11a	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007).	MP
76	BD	60	教練示範 - Coach Demonstrates	Sport	Bad	Questionable	5.12b	Off-limits - do not climb until rebolted.	MP
77	BD	61	落大石 - Big Rock Falling	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.12a	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)	MP
78	BD	62	火龍 - Dragon with Matches	Trad		Solid	5.10b	Anchor rebolted with TW-made Ti bolts (2017)	MP
79	BD	63	哈雷 - Harley-Davidson	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10d	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Tough start for shorties, harder than 10d.	MP
80	BD	64	機車 - Motorcycle	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.12c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). One 316SS bolt added (2013).	MP
81	BD	65	新法拉利 - New Ferrari	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.11c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Probably 11d.	MP	Climbio	See Climbio Link
82	BD	*	Security Blanket	Trad		Questionable	5.10c	A good line that's not in the guidebook. Follow the obvious crack right of 65.	MP
83	BD	66	就是5點13 - Just Five-Thirteen	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10b	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)	MP
84	BD	67	牛仔外角 - Cowboy Arete	Sport	Bad	Bad	5.10a	The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb	MP
85	BD	68	牛仔小丑 - Rodeo Clown	Trad		Bad	5.10a	Anchor chopped, unstable rock, do not climb	MP
86	BD	69	迷之鎮 - Loose on the Town	Trad		Bad	5.9	Anchor chopped, unstable rock, do not climb
87	BD	70	橫行霸道 - Crabwalk	Sport	Bad	Bad	5.11d	The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb
88	BD	71	小翔三連敗 - Hsiao Shiang's Third Strike	Sport	Bad	Bad	5.12b	The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb
89	BD	72	橫渡地下室 Basement Traverse	Boulder			5.10c
90	BD	73	寄居蟹 - Hermit Crab	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.9	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)	MP
91	BD	74	寄居蟹二 - Hermit Crab P2	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.9	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)	MP
92	BD	75	應該是 - Hey Hey Hey	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.11c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
93	Warning: Rock quality of routes #76-91 is mostly decent but there is still significant loose rock in this area and even some routes. If you choose to proceed, wear helmets and climb carefully.
94	BD	76	獅子后 - Lion Queen	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Big block right before the anchors has been epoxied but is still loose.	MP
95	BD	77	獅子后二 - Lion Queen P2	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.7	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
96	BD	78	熔岩孔 - Lava Tube	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10d	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Very difficult clips through the crux.	MP
97	BD	79	鳥巢 - Bird's Nest	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10d	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 81 on page 40 of guidebook. Feels like 10c.
98	BD	80	Eagle's Arete	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.10b	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007)
99	BD	81	正上 - Straight Up	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.11c	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 82 on page 40 of guidebook
100	BD	82	矮子兩步遠 - Napoleon's Reach	Sport	Questionable	Questionable	5.12b	Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 83 on page 40 of guidebook