A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z | AA | AB | AC | AD | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Area | Route # | Route Name | Type | Bolt | Anchor | Grade | Notes | Mountain Project | Climbio | |||||||||||||||||
2 | Guidebook+ | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
3 | Updates, route conditions & new lines at Long Dong since printing of "Rock Climbing Taiwan" (2012) | Sources: | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
4 | View more details online: www.tinyurl.com/GBplus | Rock Climbing Taiwan Guidebook | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
5 | Chinese version available in tab below! | 龍洞rebolt進度列表 - 龍洞rebolt計劃 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
6 | 中文版本在下方【GB+(中文)】分頁內 | 2012-13龍洞Anchor Chain加裝-路線列表 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
7 | To contribute Long Dong safety info email | Debolt Project - Unsafe Bolts | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
8 | guidebookplus@gmail.com | Long Dong, Taiwan - Mountainproject.com | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
9 | updated:04/2017 | "台灣龍洞攀岩Guide Book 一般意見記錄區 - 台攀" | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
10 | Climbio - Long Dong | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
11 | First Aid Storage Locations in Long Dong | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
12 | Backdoor | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
13 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
14 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
15 | Area | Route # | Route Name | Type | Bolt | Anchor | Grade | Notes | Mountain Project | Climbio | |||||||||||||||||
16 | BD | 1 | ㄅ - Bo | Boulder | 5.7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
17 | BD | 2 | ㄆ - Po | Boulder | 5.5 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
18 | BD | 3 | ㄇ - Mo | Boulder | 5.6 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
19 | BD | 4 | ㄈ - Fo | Boulder | 5.7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
20 | BD | 5 | ㄉ - Do | Boulder | 5.8 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
21 | BD | 6 | ㄊ - To | Boulder | 5.10b | ||||||||||||||||||||||
22 | BD | 7 | 草帽大嫂 - Grass Hat Sister | Trad | 5.6 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
23 | BD | 8 | 老龍勃魯斯 Elder Dragon Blues | Trad | 5.10a | ||||||||||||||||||||||
24 | BD | 9 | 南方岩角 - Southern Arete | Trad | 5.8 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
25 | BD | 10 | 簡單內角 - Easy Dihedral | Trad | 5.7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
26 | BD | 11 | 超越巔峰 - Into Thin Air | Toprope | None | None | 5.6 | Fully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gear | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
27 | BD | 12 | 樓梯間 - Under the Staircase | Toprope | None | None | 5.10c | Fully debolted 2014. Anchor can be walked to/off and made from trad gear | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
28 | BD | 13 | 不要跌倒 - Watch Your Step | Trad | None | None | 5.11a | Fully debolted 2014; same route as #14. Easy for the grade. | |||||||||||||||||||
29 | BD | 14 | 後門人 - Back Door Man | Trad | None | 5.10c | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
30 | BD | 15 | 黑到爆 - Hell Night | Toprope | None | 5.12d | |||||||||||||||||||||
31 | BD | 16 | RCC | Toprope | None | 5.11d | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
32 | BD | 17 | 蛋頭 - Jeff | Trad | None | 5.11a | |||||||||||||||||||||
33 | BD | 18 | 迴避 - Sidestep | Trad | None | None | 5.10a | Fully debolted 2014; can be trad climbed | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
34 | BD | 19 | 另一個懸岩 - Another Overhang | Trad | None | 5.9 | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
35 | BD | 20 | 彈頭小裂隙 - Jeff's RP Crack | Trad | None | 5.10a | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
36 | BD | 21 | 斜板 - Slab, Eh | Trad | None | 5.6 | |||||||||||||||||||||
37 | BD | 22 | 觀浪 - Cresting Wave | Trad | None | 5.7 | |||||||||||||||||||||
38 | BD | 23 | 黏搭搭 - Slabby | Trad | None | 5.9 | |||||||||||||||||||||
39 | BD | 24 | 斜板海 - Slab Sea | Trad | None | 5.8 | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
40 | BD | 25 | 斜板D - Slab Dee | Trad | None | 5.9 | |||||||||||||||||||||
41 | BD | 26 | 斷齒 - Flying Teeth | Trad | None | 5.10b | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
42 | BD | 27 | 熱水器 - Water Heater Route | Trad | None | None | 5.8 | Fully debolted 2014; can be trad climbed (maybe not the same line) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
43 | BD | 28 | V字倒影 - Mirrored Vee | Boulder | 5.9 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
44 | BD | 29 | 裂隙面 - Crackface | Toprope | 5.9 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
45 | BD | 30 | 內角五十五 - Dihedral Fifty-Five | Boulder | 5.5 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
46 | BD | 31 | 鐮刀 - Sickle | Toprope | 5.7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
47 | BD | 32 | 懸岩外角 - Hanging Arete | Toprope | 5.10b | ||||||||||||||||||||||
48 | BD | 33 | 開發中的抱石 - Boulder Project | Boulder | 5.13a? | ||||||||||||||||||||||
49 | BD | 34 | 笑裡藏刀 - Two-Faced | Toprope | 5.11b | ||||||||||||||||||||||
50 | BD | 35 | 騙人的拳頭 - Cheating Fists | Trad | 5.8 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
51 | BD | 36 | 後門拳頭裂隙 Backdoor Fistcrack | Trad | 5.10d | ||||||||||||||||||||||
52 | BD | 37 | 岩面 - Face | Toprope | 5.8 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
53 | BD | 38 | 散步路線 - Scramble | Toprope | 5.4 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
54 | BD | 39 | 簡單路線 - Lowdown | Toprope | 5.4 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
55 | BD | 40 | 湖邊路線 - Lakeside | Toprope | 5.5 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
56 | BD | 41 | 龍柱 - Dragon Pole | Trad | 5.9 | Dangerous fall potential from first move. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||||
57 | BD | 42 | 地下居民 - Cellar Dweller | Trad | 5.10b | ||||||||||||||||||||||
58 | BD | 43 | 別撈過界 - Don't Cross The Line | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | ||||||||||||||||||||
59 | BD | 44 | 地下室角落 - Basement Corner | Trad | Bad | 5.6 | The anchor is some very old slings. Gear at the crux is tenuous at best. Not recommended. | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
60 | BD | 45 | 冤家宜解不宜結 - Olive Branch | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.12a | Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016) | |||||||||||||||||||
61 | BD | 46 | 誰騙了誰? - Who fooled who? | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.11a | Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
62 | BD | 47 | Vita | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.11d | Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
63 | BD | 48 | Yum Yum | Trad | 5.11b | Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016). | |||||||||||||||||||||
64 | BD | 49 | 大家的福利- Everybody's Welfare | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.11a | Entire route rebolted with titanium (11/2016). Fitted with RH (11/2016) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
65 | BD | 50 | 誰與爭鋒 - Incomparable | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.13a | Bad bolt removed and rebolted Summer 2014. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016). | |||||||||||||||||||
66 | BD | 51 | 笑傲江湖 - Xiao Ao Jiang Hu | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.12c | Rebolted 2013. soft 12c. Anchors rebolted with titanium (11/2016).1st, 2nd and last lead bolt rebolted with TI. | |||||||||||||||||||
67 | BD | 52 | Happy Ending | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.13a/b | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007), FFA: Alex Honnold, 10/2013: http://westietsai007.pixnet.net/blog/post/163390706 - "It's pretty height dependent but not crazy hard" | |||||||||||||||||||
68 | BD | * | 雷達虎頭蜂 - Hornet Raiders | Trad | Solid | 5.12 | Climb up crack to the right of 52 and cross over to Xiao Ao Jiang Hu after the 3rd bolt and continue up crack on Xiao Ao Jiang Hu. Rack to #2 | ||||||||||||||||||||
69 | BD | 53 | 倩女驚魂 - Phantom Fright | Trad | Questionable | 5.10b | Top out not recommended, descend via High Class Quickdraw anchor | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
70 | BD | 54 | 高檔快扣 - High Class Quckdraw | Sport | Questionable | 5.10d | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
71 | BD | 55 | 饅頭 - Mantel | Sport | Solid | Solid | 5.12b | 2 sketchy bolts rebolted 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016). | |||||||||||||||||||
72 | BD | 56 | 扭來扭去 - Twisting | Sport | Questionable | 5.12a | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Sketchy bolt replaced 2014. One Ti anchor bolt added (11/2016). | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
73 | BD | 57 | 好人阿郎 - Good Guy A-Lang | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.11c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Stick clip recommended for the start. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
74 | BD | 58 | 一步難 - One Tough Move | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.12a | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | |||||||||||||||||||
75 | BD | 59 | 赤頭 - Redhead | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.11a | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
76 | BD | 60 | 教練示範 - Coach Demonstrates | Sport | Bad | Questionable | 5.12b | Off-limits - do not climb until rebolted. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
77 | BD | 61 | 落大石 - Big Rock Falling | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.12a | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
78 | BD | 62 | 火龍 - Dragon with Matches | Trad | Solid | 5.10b | Anchor rebolted with TW-made Ti bolts (2017) | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
79 | BD | 63 | 哈雷 - Harley-Davidson | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.10d | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Tough start for shorties, harder than 10d. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
80 | BD | 64 | 機車 - Motorcycle | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.12c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). One 316SS bolt added (2013). | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
81 | BD | 65 | 新法拉利 - New Ferrari | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.11c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Probably 11d. | MP | Climbio | See Climbio Link | ||||||||||||||||
82 | BD | * | Security Blanket | Trad | Questionable | 5.10c | A good line that's not in the guidebook. Follow the obvious crack right of 65. | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
83 | BD | 66 | 就是5點13 - Just Five-Thirteen | Sport | Questionable | 5.10b | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
84 | BD | 67 | 牛仔外角 - Cowboy Arete | Sport | Bad | Bad | 5.10a | The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
85 | BD | 68 | 牛仔小丑 - Rodeo Clown | Trad | Bad | 5.10a | Anchor chopped, unstable rock, do not climb | MP | |||||||||||||||||||
86 | BD | 69 | 迷之鎮 - Loose on the Town | Trad | 5.9 | Anchor chopped, unstable rock, do not climb | |||||||||||||||||||||
87 | BD | 70 | 橫行霸道 - Crabwalk | Sport | Bad | Bad | 5.11d | The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb | |||||||||||||||||||
88 | BD | 71 | 小翔三連敗 - Hsiao Shiang's Third Strike | Sport | Bad | Bad | 5.12b | The entire upper wall has collapsed, making this route impossible to climb | |||||||||||||||||||
89 | BD | 72 | 橫渡地下室 Basement Traverse | Boulder | 5.10c | ||||||||||||||||||||||
90 | BD | 73 | 寄居蟹 - Hermit Crab | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.9 | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
91 | BD | 74 | 寄居蟹二 - Hermit Crab P2 | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.9 | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
92 | BD | 75 | 應該是 - Hey Hey Hey | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.11c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | |||||||||||||||||||
93 | Warning: Rock quality of routes #76-91 is mostly decent but there is still significant loose rock in this area and even some routes. If you choose to proceed, wear helmets and climb carefully. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
94 | BD | 76 | 獅子后 - Lion Queen | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.10c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Big block right before the anchors has been epoxied but is still loose. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
95 | BD | 77 | 獅子后二 - Lion Queen P2 | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.7 | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | |||||||||||||||||||
96 | BD | 78 | 熔岩孔 - Lava Tube | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.10d | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Very difficult clips through the crux. | MP | ||||||||||||||||||
97 | BD | 79 | 鳥巢 - Bird's Nest | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.10d | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 81 on page 40 of guidebook. Feels like 10c. | |||||||||||||||||||
98 | BD | 80 | Eagle's Arete | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.10b | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007) | |||||||||||||||||||
99 | BD | 81 | 正上 - Straight Up | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.11c | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 82 on page 40 of guidebook | |||||||||||||||||||
100 | BD | 82 | 矮子兩步遠 - Napoleon's Reach | Sport | Questionable | Questionable | 5.12b | Taiwan 316 bolts (2007). Listed as 83 on page 40 of guidebook |